Milk Tea that is "Pink"!

Moroccan Mint Tea with Arabic Sweets

I don't drink coffee, so tea is always my choice instead. My favourite tea is Indian or Pakistani style milky chai that is very rich with sweet evaporated milk. I know many people find this type of tea way too sweet and I agree, but am sort of used to it now.

So far I'm concerned they typically use evaporated milk instead of fresh possibly because once upon a time when fridges were a luxury, evaporated milk was a natural choice in those hot-climate countries because it has longer life than fresh milk. Keeping fresh milk fresh must've been a bit of a hassle and challenge especially in the countryside and some remote areas.

In fact it's not just in India or Pakistan, local coffees or teas of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, etc in the tropic South Asia are typically made with sweetened evaporated milk.

Many people may not be used to the distinct flavour of evaporated milk, I love my tea milky so it doesn't bother me whether the milk is evaporated or fresh.

Every time I visit my Pakistani friends in Dubai, they always brew me some rich milky chai. To my surprise they (2 sisters) do not like cinnamon in their tea, and usually use fresh milk. They add spoonfuls of Indian/Pakistani tea 'grains' to water and milk, boil and simmer it for 10 minutes. Cardamon and/or cloves may be added.

Even though the tea is brewed for 10 long minutes, it has no bitterness and absolutely heavenly tasty!

At this snack shop, tea is served in a hand-made clay cup, which is disposable! Initially Dh1.50/cup but now gone up to Dh2...

If you step into an industrial are or a neighbourhood of South Asian expat labour, you'll find many small tea shops or stalls that sell a number of different types of tea such as spiced or ginger tea.

Although a significant portion of the UAE's population is made up with South Asians, not all of such tea shops sell excellent brewed chai. You may well be served with a Lipton tea bag! Or even if they do give you brewed tea, it could be too strong or horribly bitter, possibly because of over-brewing. You've got to be careful.

If a queue of cars forming up to for a takeaway cuppa right in front of a tea stall, you may take it for a reliable sign of pretty good cuppas.

The tea stall an Emirati friend of mine took me in his shiny Porsche Cayenne the other day was one such shop serving excellent tea. The shop was shabby but extremely busy, and amazingly here was I to come across the very rare pink chai that is a speciality of the highlands of Pakistan or Afghanistan as far as I know.

I knew one Pakistani eatery in Manhattan that served this rare tea. It seems a bit of hassle to make this tea, so despite the fact the UAE is filled with thousands of South Asians, this chai is extremely rare. Words are not enough to thank my dear friend, Ali who took me here!!

Pink Tea?! Such a Rarity!

Morocco in North Africa is known for its refreshing mint tea. As I sip the tea poured in a tiny glass the aroma of fresh cool mint gives me a relaxing moment.

In Egypt you have a choice of loose tea or a tea bag. I find loose tea much better in quality, however I see locals equally enjoy tea bags. I hear loose tea is stronger, so depending on the time of day or personal preference, some opt for a tea bag.

Bedouin tea is green tea brewed over heat and sugar is added. In China and other Asian countries, green tea is always served plain.

A Moroccan friend of mine is a top chef who has worked for 5-star hotels in various cities across the world. She's currently in charge of a fine Moroccan restaurant in an Abu Dhabi hotel. At weekends they hold a belly dance show which I found quite entertaining.

Ramadan

This year's Ramadan just finished on 9th September in the Gulf region. Ramadan is a holy month in Islam and Muslims fast from dawn to sunset throughout the month. Non-Muslims in Islamic nations are not required to follow this practice, however you may be punished if caught easting or drinking in public during fasting hours.

A Filipino receptionist in my office told me one morning that a fellow Christian compatriot of hers, who was new to Dubai, got fined Dh8,000 for 'smoking' outside a church after attending a Sunday service! Just for you smokers' information, smoking is strictly not allowed, during the day in Ramadan.

I don't know about the Dh8,000 fine but have read in the newspapers from time to time about westerners who got caught drinking (water, coke, juice...) in public like at a petrol service, and given a fine of some US$200-300.

Doughnut-like Sweets served with Date Syrup

During Ramadan most restaurants and eateries are shut until a couple of hours before the sunset when they start preparing the food. There are restaurants that are open throughout the day to cater to non-Muslims and tourists.

These restaurants are usually found in hotels but you may not notice if they're open since out of courtesy for the Muslims, they cover every single window with curtains in order to shut the view completely from outside (ie, no peepholes) so that no one 'suspects' (well, it's a known fact though...) there's someone eating inside hours before sunset.

Malls are open as usual but many outlets inside may be shut during the day for lack of customers. Supermarkets are all open day and night.

During Ramadan things get busy and active at night. Muslims spend as much time as possible with family and friends. They break fast at home and in addition to the regular 5 daily prayers, many attend night prayers in mosque specially held in the holy month.

When all that is over, they go out with family or friends at around 10.00pm. Many souqs and malls in Dubai stay open until 1.00am or later. Shops are open until 4.00am or so in Saudi Arabia, so according to my Saudi friends, Ramadan night life in the UAE is 'too short' and 'no fun' (!).

Office hours are reduced during the holy month, so business tends to slow down considerably, especially in the government sectors.

Traditional Arabic Food: Harees هريس

Harees (or hareesa) is an Arabic dish that resembles sort of very thick savoury porridge in a glue-like consistency (!). It's main ingredients are wheat, ghee (purified butter) and a tiny bit of meat (often lamb or mutton). It is cooked for hours until the meat has the texture of purée and completely dissolved. Yeah.

هريس

The other day I wrote about 'biryani', that is a must for Ramadan. Harees is another such dish that is typically served on special occasions like weddings, 'Eid' holidays and Ramadan.

For centuries Yemeni trade merchants travelled all round the world and some settled in Indonesia and Singapore in South East Asia as well as other parts of the world. Today there exist sizeable communities of Yemeni descendants in these countries, and Arabic is still spoken by some.

When I lived in Singapore, one Eid I visited the home of a Singaporean imam of Yemeni descent. I noticed that the harees was the very first dish out of so many other mouth-watering food on the table that a group of young Saudi exchange students helped themselves to. They were enjoying it with a touch of honey and cinnamon powder. Harees must mean a lot to many Arabs.

At the imam's, harees was duly prepared by the imam's mother herself and not by the Indonesian maids or cooks. Harees is an example of a traditional Arabic home cooked meal and customarily enjoyed only at home. Although in the Middle East, it can be found in selected Arabic restaurants throughout the year, but if you are a tourist on a short visit, the chance to try harees may not come by that easily.

Ramadan = Biryani?!

Ramadan is the 9th month of the Islamic calendar. It is not just about fasting which Muslim practice from dawn to sunset, but a time for showing compassion, leaning to be patient and forgiving.

Charity and good deeds are always important in Islam but they have more significance in the holy month. For instance many mosques and charitable organisations along with individuals offer free meals (often in the form of a fast-breaking dinner called iftar) to the needy and poor throughout the course of Ramadan.

In non-Muslim countries like the UK or the States or Singapore, Muslims in general gather at the mosque and take part in the communal breaking of fast as this is an excellent opportunity to meet and interact with fellow Muslims. Here in the UAE, most people break fast at home with family and the majority of those who take iftar in the mosque are male labour and workers from South Asian countries.

There are some traditional and special dishes, both savoury and sweet, that are prepared particularly during Ramadan and they vary from one country to another.

In the Arabian Gulf because of the substantial presence of Pakistanis, Indians and other South Asians, 'biryani' is one such dish that can never be missed. Initially and traditionally biryani was a deluxe, rich dish that was enjoyed only on special occasions, but today it's a popular and staple meal readily served in any Persian or South Asian restaurant / eatery.

Biryani served at a mosque...

However, no matter how good the quality or how tasty it may be or how starving you are, eating biryani every single day as a first meal of the day not only raise some serious health concerns but it's a sheer challenge.

The other day I paid a visit to a Pakistani friend of mine whose brother is a resident imam in charge of a mosque in Al Barsha. Last Ramadan I had also visited this family to join iftar. When the iftar was delivered, I was taken aback and then dismayed at the biryani - everything about it, the way it was served, the quality of the rice or meat or every single characteristic, was intact as the previous year's!

It seems public cooking at mosques is not allowed in the UAE, so biryani (or iftar meals) is catered. Evidently by the same caterers at my friend's mosque... If I was not mistaken, the imam looked totally put off by the daily intake of biryani. And who could blame him??

When I lived in London or Pakistan, I loved biryani so very much. When I shifted to Singapore later and did work as a volunteer helping with iftar during Ramadan, I ended up eating biryani 30 days in a row.

In Singapore, a group of caterers actually prepared biryani on the mosque premises and they used good-quality ingredients including vast quantities of expensive nuts, sultanas or raisins. However, enough is enough! Since then I've been meticulously avoiding biryani whenever I come across it!

Ramadan in Qatar

I went to Qatar from 20th August. As I got to Doha, I felt the weather even hotter than in Dubai. The car I hired came with no smoke or tinted windows that could've helped cut down the sun's harsh glare or the building up of the heat.

My flight was early in the morning and I'd been quite busy lately, so I decided to stay and chill out in the hotel until evening. After all, it was amidst the holy month of Ramadan.

During Ramadan Muslims across the world fast from dawn to sunset. This year, the holy month fell during the harsh summer, so there's hardly any activity going on during the day. The city is as quiet or dead as a ghost town, at least until later in the evening.

All the GCC countries in the Arabian Gulf are similar to the point they are almost identical, ie, there's nothing much new or different from one country to another. Each mall may have a unique name, but once you've walked inside, all the outlets are identical, all the same, way-too-familiar chains of shops be it a boutique or a restaurant or a café. You wouldn't need a menu – you know too well what they have to offer.

Having said that, of course I didn't come to Qatar to lock myself up in the hotel room! I was feeling tired and lethargic, but managed to get ready and stepped out to a mall. It was just about the time to break fast, so seemingly people were having dinner at home and the mall was nearly empty.

Skyscrapers along Doha Corniche

Here by some strange quirk I came across a group of Qatari women. This mall was located in the middle of a residential area, a bit away from downtown Doha, a neighbourhood that was lined with 'villas' for local Qataris. And not many tourist visit Qatar at this time of year.

They may've got curious about me as obviously I was a 'stranger', a woman seemingly travelling alone in the month of Ramadan (in Arab culture, Ramadan, just like Christmas, is a time for families to get together, and women don't really go out on their own). Those women were sisters in their 30s/40s and they insisted that I should come with them to their home which was just around the corner from the mall.

A typical house of a local Arab family in this part of the world is a huge mansion compared with western standard. According to the sisters, they usually gather here at their parents' and break fast together during Ramadan. I was told the surrounding 2-3 mansions were their brothers'. It was already well past sunset and everyone had finished dinner and was chilling out chatting over tea and coffee and many other interesting Arabic drinks and sweets. In addition to the several sisters, there were some 25 female family members including sisters-in-law and children. Their mother was an elderly woman but such an incredibly adorable and sweet grandma – I absolutely loved her!

Whenever there is someone unrelated to the family, customarily even at home men and women separate following the teachings of Islam. The huge sitting room was evidently for women and children only, and here I was introduced to every female member of the family and little boys that were present. All the male family were presumably gathering in a separate lounge entertaining male guests or neighbours. Some households have lounges (more like halls) that are large enough to accommodate up to 70-100 (or more) people at a time.

When at home or in a room where there're no men, Muslim women are not required to cover up the hair or the face or the entire body. Underneath the black 'abaya' (a type of very thin long coat Arab women wear in public) they were wearing very colourful dresses.

It was well past 22.00 and as I wanted to go to a local souq (bazaar) in central Doha, regrettably I had to get going. This lovely family invited me for the fast-breaking dinner the following day, and happily I accepted. I was truly grateful for their hospitality and will always cherish this very special moment.

Time to eat!

Unfortunately this is the only photo I could take as you are not supposed to take photos of Muslim women, especially if and when they are not properly covered.

The photo shows only a preparation stage and lots more dishes and sweets followed one after another.

Ever Seen a Sandy Sky Like This??

Sand storms are pretty common in the Middle East where much of the land is arid desert. Strong gales blow sand / dust away.

These are the photos I took when I recently visited a friend who lives in Sharjah two days in a row.

Look at the sandy sky. You may think the temperature may be somewhat 'cooler' because it looks sort of 'cloudy'. Nah! It's deceptive, it's just as hot as it is with or without the sand in the air.

Notice the difference in visibility!

You definitely feel the blowing winds whist driving on the motorway so you'd better watch out. On a day like this, you see a lot of people on the streets covering their mouth and nose with a scarf.

Once you shift away from the central, commercial areas of the UAE, you'll notice many of residential areas are not paved just as in these photos. I wonder if it's because this is after all a country of desert, or the UAE is still being 'under construction'..?

Dinner at the Royal Stables of the Emir of Ajman, UAE

I was invited to attend a 3-day international conference on environmental issues that was organised by the Government of Ajman in late March. This conference was held every year or so, and there came a lot of participants and speakers invited from Europe, the States and other parts of the world.

Incidentally this time last year in Singapore I'd attended a reception held by the UAE Embassy over there for a trade delegation from Ajman. Some of the Ajman officials I had met in Singapore were now in charge of this conference.

Ajman is one of the 7 emirates that comprise the UAE, but it's the smallest by area size and has no major industry or commerce whatsoever. Ajman is pretty much a minor, sleepy emirate.

Despite this, invitation to the conference was generously extended to the families of those invited speakers and participants, so a delegation of some 60 foreign visitors was put up at Ajman's only 5-star hotel.

Welcome to the Royal Stables!

The presentations covered a number of topics and reports on city planning projects that were actually carried out in various cities across the globe. For the UAE, the challenge was how to balance the preservation of history and urban development for the future. Personally I found all those presentations quite interesting and informative and enjoyed them a lot.

At the end of the entire programmes, we were to attend a special dinner held at the Royal Stables of the Emir of Ajman. HH Sheikh Humaid had inaugurated the opening ceremony of the conference.

Outdoor Seating at the Royal Stables

The Stables were located in the middle of the desert, a good an-hour drive from the coastal areas of Ajman. Upon arriving we were given a quick tour of the entire Stables by the staff.

There were hundreds of medals and cups and all sorts of trophies along with countless paintings of horses. Horses as well as camels are undoubtedly a serious investment for the Arabs.

Dining tables were set right in the gardens. Many people believe the climate of the Arabian Gulf is intolerably harsh and hot throughout the year. It is true during the summer but now in March it's absolutely lovely, so the outdoor seating was an excellent idea.

The staff were seemingly all male, probably Indian or Pakistani. I bet most of the visitors and guests to the Stables are generally men, so this must be a venue for men's social gatherings.

Race Horse

The following day, we were taken to a dinner at a Middle Eastern restaurant in Dubai Mall. The restaurant was busy and seemed almost fully booked. The best tables on the balcony overlooking the Dubai Fountain show were specially reserved for us.

However, an Abu Dhabi Prince, Sheikh Ahmed had been killed in a glider crash in Morocco just a few days before. Consequently a three-day mourning period starting from this very day (!) was announced, during which entertainment of all forms in public was officially cancelled across the UAE. Sadly we had to go without the fountains and music despite the best view the organisers provided for us!

Ethnic Cuisine: Afghan Kebab

Juicy BBQ Kebab, Dh10

I happen to go to downtown Deira quite often lately. There're lots of souqs in this neghbourhood and it's always crowded. Despite the heavy traffic I actually quite enjoy watching the hustle and bustle of the street.

The area is filled with people from all walks of life and every corner of the world – south Asians such as Indians, Pakistanis, Bangladeshis, Nepalese, Sri Lankans; Africans from Sudan, Djibouti, Eritrea, coupled with Arabs from various countries, Iranians, Chinese and so forth. It seems the influx of Chinese expats to Dubai has grown drastically over the past 4-5 years.

Multi-ethnic neighbourhoods come with multi-ethnic restaurants and eateries. One such restaurant that has always caught my attention sets the grill on fire and starts BBQing late afternoon and that distinct smoky smell of charcoal grilled meats is simply irresistible! Charcoal certainly gives a more smoky taste and authentic flavour that permeates through grilled food – I love charcoal grills!

Crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside..., never forget to squeeze fresh lemon over it!

Years ago when I was based in Pakistan and other South Asian cities, I used to see those casual eateries in the open garden right off the road and each one of them had smoky juicy BBQ on the grill. I haven't been back in years so it does bring back all the tasty memories! I would savour freshly prepared authentic kebab sitting outside under a clear sky full of shining stars, feeling the humid and warm breeze from the Indian Ocean, and suffering from itchy mozzie bites on my legs and ankles!

This time I couldn't resist any more. I jumped inside and helped myself to the authentic Afghan-style smoky shish kebab, squeezing lots of fresh lemon juice over it - ah, heavenly! The naan, fresh from the tandoor oven was fluffy to the perfection.

In the neighbourhood that is full of labourers, there were certainly no groups of women, not even women accompanied by male family members, when I walked into this restaurant. I was the only one but it was definitely worth it (am used to this sort of situation anyway lol)!